Japan's Centuries-Long Dietary Shift: From Prohibition to Modern Cuisine

For over a millennium, Japan observed a widespread prohibition on meat consumption, initiated by imperial decree in the 7th century and profoundly shaping its culinary traditions. The ban was dramatically repealed during the Meiji Restoration in the late 19th century, ushering in a new era of Japanese cuisine that integrated Western influences and iconic meat dishes.

Aisha Abasi

May 15, 2026 · Updated October 2, 2026 · 5 min read

For over a millennium, Japan observed a widespread prohibition on meat consumption, a practice that profoundly shaped its culinary traditions, societal norms, and even the physical stature of its people. Initiated by imperial decree in the 7th century, this ban, influenced by a complex interplay of religious beliefs and secular considerations, dictated the Japanese diet until its dramatic repeal during the Meiji Restoration in the late 19th century.

The long-standing prohibition led to a diet rich in fish, rice, soy, and seaweed, with meat often consumed covertly or under specific exceptions. The eventual lifting of the ban, driven by a desire for modernization and a belief in the nutritional benefits of meat, ushered in a new era of Japanese cuisine, integrating Western influences and leading to the emergence of now-iconic meat dishes.

The Genesis of Prohibition: Emperor Tenmu's Decree and Buddhist Influence

The official prohibition on meat consumption in Japan began in 675 AD when Emperor Tenmu issued a decree banning the consumption of cows, horses, dogs, monkeys, and chickens. This initial ban was particularly enforced during the farming season, from April to September each year. Emperor Tenmu, a devout Buddhist, was likely influenced by the Buddhist principle of transmigration, which advocates compassion for all living beings, as well as Shinto ideas of purity related to blood and dead bodies, according to an article on Wikipedia. The Asahi Shimbun also notes that the emperor's devotion to Buddhism was a key factor.

While Buddhism played a significant role, the ban also had secular roots. Even before the introduction of Buddhism, meat was not a central part of the Japanese diet, as the island nation traditionally relied on fish and seafood. Historian Naomishi Ishige points out that protein was primarily derived from rice rather than meat or milk. The initial decree notably excluded deer and wild boar, which were among the most commonly eaten meats in Japan, suggesting that factors beyond purely Buddhist morality influenced its formation, as detailed on Wikipedia.

Adapting to the Ban: Diet, Circumvention, and Societal Impact

Throughout the centuries of prohibition, the Japanese diet adapted significantly, centering on staples like fish, rice, soy, and seaweed. Despite the official ban, mentions of meat consumption, particularly wild boar and deer, persisted from the 8th to the 16th centuries, according to Wikipedia. These animals were not included in Emperor Tenmu's initial decree, and their consumption was often concentrated in the mountainous regions of northern Japan, though meat was also available in urban markets.

Circumvention of the ban was not uncommon. Meat was sometimes consumed for medicinal purposes, with even Buddhist monks occasionally permitted to eat it on doctor's orders, as reported by Atlas Obscura. Euphemisms emerged to refer to prohibited meats, such as "momiji" (Japanese maple) for deer and "botan" (peony) or "yama kujira" (mountain whale) for boar, indicating a demand that supported butcher businesses, according to Plenus 米食文化研究所. An 18th-century example highlights this inconsistency: the Hikone Clan sent an annual gift of beef pickled in sake to the shogun, labeling it as medicine. Birds were generally more acceptable than mammals, and marine mammals like dolphins and whales were frequently consumed, often classified as fish.

The long-term denial of a major protein source is believed to have impacted the physical development of the Japanese population. The average height of Japanese men, estimated at 163 centimeters during the Kofun Period (ending around the 7th century), reportedly began to shrink after the meat ban was imposed. By the Edo Period (1603-1867), the average height for men was estimated at 157 cm, a key factor believed to be the lack of access to animal meat, according to The Asahi Shimbun.

Timeline of Japan's Meat Ban

Year	Event/Decree	Key Figures/Influences	Impact/Consequence
675 AD	Emperor Tenmu issues the first official decree prohibiting the consumption of certain meats.	Emperor Tenmu, Buddhist principles, Shinto purity concepts	The ban specifically targeted beef, horse, dog, chicken, and monkey, especially during the farming season.
7th-19th Centuries	The ban led to a diet centered on fish, rice, soy, and seaweed.	Religious and secular traditions, limited livestock farming	A perceived decrease in average male height; wild game like deer and boar were often excluded from the ban and consumed, sometimes under euphemisms.
18th Century	Instances of circumvention, such as the Hikone Clan sending beef labeled as medicine to the shogun, highlight inconsistent enforcement.	Hikone Clan, medicinal beliefs, specific classes like bushi warriors	Meat was sometimes consumed for medicinal purposes or by specific classes, often covertly.
1853	The arrival of Commodore Perry's ships and subsequent opening of Japan introduced Western meat-eating habits.	Commodore Perry, Western influence	Western cuisine restaurants opened in settlements like Nagasaki and Yokohama for foreigners.
1872	Emperor Meiji publicly consumed meat, effectively lifting the centuries-long ban.	Emperor Meiji, Meiji government's modernization efforts	This act was part of a broader effort to modernize Japan and strengthen its population, though it faced protests.
Post-Meiji Restoration	Meat consumption rapidly became accepted, leading to the emergence of new dishes like gyū-nabe and a shift in dietary patterns.	Westernization, government policy, culinary innovation	Dairy products also became more mainstream, though later, around the 1980s.

Year

Event/Decree

Key Figures/Influences

Impact/Consequence

675 AD

Emperor Tenmu issues the first official decree prohibiting the consumption of certain meats.

Emperor Tenmu, Buddhist principles, Shinto purity concepts

The ban specifically targeted beef, horse, dog, chicken, and monkey, especially during the farming season.

7th-19th Centuries

The ban led to a diet centered on fish, rice, soy, and seaweed.

Religious and secular traditions, limited livestock farming

A perceived decrease in average male height; wild game like deer and boar were often excluded from the ban and consumed, sometimes under euphemisms.

18th Century

Instances of circumvention, such as the Hikone Clan sending beef labeled as medicine to the shogun, highlight inconsistent enforcement.

Hikone Clan, medicinal beliefs, specific classes like bushi warriors

Meat was sometimes consumed for medicinal purposes or by specific classes, often covertly.

1853

The arrival of Commodore Perry's ships and subsequent opening of Japan introduced Western meat-eating habits.

Commodore Perry, Western influence

Western cuisine restaurants opened in settlements like Nagasaki and Yokohama for foreigners.

1872

Emperor Meiji publicly consumed meat, effectively lifting the centuries-long ban.

Emperor Meiji, Meiji government's modernization efforts

This act was part of a broader effort to modernize Japan and strengthen its population, though it faced protests.

Post-Meiji Restoration

Meat consumption rapidly became accepted, leading to the emergence of new dishes like gyū-nabe and a shift in dietary patterns.

Westernization, government policy, culinary innovation

Dairy products also became more mainstream, though later, around the 1980s.

Modern Japanese Cuisine: The Enduring Legacy

Following the Meiji Restoration and the lifting of the meat ban, meat consumption rapidly gained acceptance in Japan. This period saw the emergence of new dishes that blended traditional Japanese flavors with newly embraced ingredients. For instance, the simmered beef dish gyū-nabe became popular in the Kantō region, while sukiyaki, involving thinly sliced beef cooked with soy sauce and sugar, gained prominence, particularly after the Great Kantō Earthquake of 1923 when many gyū-nabe restaurants were destroyed and Kansai residents introduced sukiyaki to Tokyo, according to Plenus 米食文化研究所.

Meat was increasingly viewed as a nutritious food essential for building strong physiques in modern Japan. While many Japanese initially struggled to develop unfamiliar meat dishes, pork also became cheaper and more popular, leading to the creation of dishes like tonkatsu, as detailed on Wikipedia. Post-World War II, meat consumption in Japan increased more than seven-fold. Dairy products also became more mainstream, though their widespread adoption occurred later, around the 1980s. The historical shift from a meat-free diet to one that embraces diverse meat dishes reflects a profound transformation in Japanese food culture and national identity.